Buckwheat gets right to the heart of whole-grain flavor. The complexity of the flour distinguishes Brittany’s crêpes and Japan’s soba noodles, and the nuttiness of the kernels makes Russia’s roasted groats, or kasha, irresistible. Botanically, buckwheat is not a grain at all but the seed of a plant related to rhubarb. Buy kasha, commonly sold in supermarkets, for deepest flavor, or choose unroasted groats, found in health food stores, for blander delicacy. Since the taste difference is quite pronounced, be certain of the one you want. Both are available as whole groats or cracked to various degrees of fineness. Whole groats cook to chewy, separate kernels; the finest milling yields a porridge. Whole kasha groats can be combined and steamed with white rice; the amounts of liquid and cooking time for the two are roughly the same. Kasha is commonly mixed with an egg and/or toasted in a saucepan with butter or oil before steaming to keep the grains firm and separate. You can skip this step if microwaving. Cooking in stock instead of water will boost the flavor without adding fat.
Microwave 2 cups chicken or beef stock and 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon salt, depending on the saltiness of the stock, in a 2-quart covered casserole on high for 5 minutes; stir in 1 cup whole or coarse-grind kasha and microwave, covered, on medium until the liquid is absorbed, about 10 minutes. Let stand, covered, for 5 minutes, fluff with a fork, and let stand for 5 minutes more. If desired, first microwave 1 tablespoon butter in the casserole on high for 1 minute; stir in 1 small onion, finely chopped; and microwave, uncovered, on high for 4 minutes, stirring after 2 minutes. Add the stock and proceed as directed.
